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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate familiar high-end establishments. However, nestled high among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Surprise Recognition

The little Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. This accolade has left the owners utterly astonished.

“I’m completely surprised,” states a owner’s son, referring to his family’s dedication that culminated in their modest place earning such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The small shop, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its original charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this establishment certainly delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

It is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of excess, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this culinary achievement.